From penguin traffic jams to fridge-free overnight oats, life running the world’s southernmost gift shop is a little different from shop manager Tiago’s daily grind back home.
It’s 7am. Back home in the UK, this would be the moment I start worrying about traffic – checking road updates over breakfast, door open so Goonie (my dog) can head outside and stretch his legs. My overnight oats would still be cold from the fridge.
Here at Port Lockroy, the oats are also cold – despite never having seen a fridge (we don’t have one). They’ve simply sat on the counter overnight, chilled by the Antarctic air. As I eat, I look out of the window instead of at my phone, checking the weather and deciding what to wear for the day ahead.
Once ready, I leave the Nissen Hut without a wallet, phone, car keys or coffee mug. All I need are the shop keys and a radio, plus goggles on sunny days, or an extra layer when the wind picks up. Preparation is everything here. I head down over the rocks, then up the ramp, and open the big, heavy generator shed door, which dates back to 1958.
Forgetting anything easily adds another ten minutes to the commute on Goudier Island. Everything takes longer here – not just because boots, layers and logistics slow you down, but because the views are incredibly distracting. No two days look the same.
Back in the shop, the routine begins: sweeping the floor, tidying shelves, checking the till systems are charged and the card machines connected (we’re cash-free). Once the music is on, the day can officially start.
On ship landing days, I collect stock from the boatshed, hauling it up the rocky slope in 100-litre dry bags, carrying only what my back will allow. I make the journey as many times as needed, weaving past our hosts, the gentoo penguins, and pausing (often) to admire the view yet again.
As guests arrive on the island, we all work together to make their visit memorable – while ensuring we keep a respectful distance from the penguins. We prepare the museum and shop, support the expedition teams, and answer plenty of questions. No two visits are ever quite the same.
On days when we visit ships, we take the shop and post office to the guests instead. Bags are packed in advance, including our famous red letter box, ready to collect postcards destined for loved ones back home. The commute is a quick ride in an inflatable boat, keeping an eye out for seals – and, if we’re lucky, whales – as the island slowly shrinks behind us.
Stepping aboard ships usually means hot showers and proper meals, briefly pulling us out of our island routines. But no matter how comfortable it is, we always love returning home. It’s amazing how quickly we’ve made the Nissen Hut our own.
At the end of each day, we come together for a debrief, taking time to celebrate what we’ve achieved. Every new UKAHT membership is a win, and an email goes off to Cambridge HQ so the team can welcome another supporter. Before turning in, we make sure everything is ready for the following day, ironing out any last-minute details with expedition staff.
After dinner, laughter and conversation, I prepare tomorrow’s oats. I smile, knowing that back in the UK, Goonie has probably just been out, the door now firmly shut. And while I love this place more than I ever imagined, I can’t wait to be the one opening the door for him again.
If you love a place, protect it
UKAHT is committed to making Antarctica, its heritage and its stories accessible to everyone.
Eighty years in Antarctica have left their mark on this beloved site. Now, Port Lockroy urgently needs restoration to protect its future. Please donate today.
Adopt a penguin
follow a unique colony at the end of the world
Your adoption directly supports on-site colony monitoring and conservation at Port Lockroy. Funds go directly to paying for a wildlife monitor to travel to Antarctica and study the penguin colony at Port Lockroy for the austral summer.
